The Birthplace of Miso Ramen
The city of Sapporo, Japan’s northernmost metropolis, is renowned for its seafood, skiing, and the international snow festival. However, for foodies, it holds a unique claim to fame: Ganso Ramen Yokocho, also known as “Ramen Alley.” This unassuming, lantern-lit alleyway in Sapporo’s Susukino nightlife district is where the world’s first miso ramen was created and continues to be perfected.
A Culinary Pilgrimage
Ramen Alley is home to 17 ramen restaurants, each offering their own twist on this beloved dish. One notable spot is Haruka, affectionately called “the rock-and-roll ramen shop” due to its vibrant atmosphere and thumping soundtrack. With space for only eight diners, it’s one of the smaller eateries but is renowned for its rich and textured ramen. Across the alley, Ichikura, led by headband-wearing chef Tetsuya Tanaka, emphasizes the balance of ingredients, treating ramen preparation almost as a sacred ritual.
The Legend and Legacy of Miso Ramen
The exact origins of miso ramen are debated, but consensus agrees it began in Sapporo, right after World War II. By the 1972 Winter Olympics, the city had consolidated street vendors into the permanent establishment now known as Ramen Alley. For the uninitiated, ramen may seem like a simple noodle soup, but in reality, it is a complex, layered dish that requires precise balance.
A Culinary Heritage
Opposite Ichikura lies the most famous restaurant on Ramen Alley, passed down from father to son over five decades. With 20 seats, it’s the largest eatery on the alley and boasts a collection of awards, including multiple national Ramen of the Year titles. The walls are adorned with portraits of famous patrons, from sumo wrestlers to the Glenn Miller Band, making it a fitting birthplace for the perfect soul food.
